Original Video from Zach Chase at
https://youtu.be/_SHiJP3-LqIFINAL STEPS FOR RIGHT WINDOW, after curing i will do the left window. During the process i had to enlarge some of the cleo holes to 1/8"...i hope i didn't damage too much the Acrylic.
I used way too much SIKAFLEX, but better to stay on the safe side. It was a bit messy, but at the end it is acceptable. For the next window i need to do a better job on the inside to smooth out better the sikaflex on the window flange...In the right window there are few spots where the sikaflex is a bit too thick. Anyway i hope people will not look too deep into that.
1. TRIMMING STANDOFF one area at the time Trial and Error method to trim down with a fresh razorblade.
Trimming mean to look at how much the acrilic stands proud and take away on the stand off the same measure. DONT REMOVE ALL THE STANDOFF AS WE NEED SPACE FOR THE SIKAFLEX TO glue the windows
2. CHeck with back of razorblade pushing from the fiberglass side towards acrilyc to check if acrilyc stands proud. Down to 1/16"". Cut down until moderate pressure and trim the standoffs until the razorblade is grabbing the tape
3. MICROMANAGE THE DEPTH AS THE JOGLE IS NOT CONSISTENT AND THE ACRILYC IS NOT CONSISTEN EITHER
4. Check that TAPE 2 IS still attached and no discontinuity around the perimeter. TAPE NEED TO BE PERFECTLY ATTACHED
If using SIKAFLEX 295 use the SIKAFLEX PRIMER 209 on the acrilic. Let it cure fo 30 min, then you can use the SIKAFLEX 295.
1. APPLY PRIMER 209.
2. Ply the FIRST TAPE, Let cure the PRIMER.
3. Drill the holes through primer and if necessary tape.
5. Put some dabs on the clear area close to the tape and then spread with finger.Make sure it contacts the acilyc. Press it down.
6. BETTER TO OVERGLUE rather than UNDERGLUE. AT LEAST HALF OF THE AREA NEEDS TO BE COVERED ON THE FIRST TAKE. WORK ON THE FIBERGLASS SIDE cover the standoff no problem.
7. Position the window glass and then press on the corner, remove with a squegee the exces and when area is clean put the cleco in place. Work the squegee towards the acrilyc to push the SIKAFLEX 295 under the acrilyc,
8. Clean the perimeter working towards the acrilyc pushing the sykaflex under the window. Clean the tool regularly.
9. Clean fingers and then start pulling the glassfiber tape along the perimeter. Remove the cleco, TURN the wood to avoid the contamination and then recleco. continue pulling the masking tape. AVOID CONTAMINATION; CHANGE the wooden pieces.
10. Window Inside: SMOOTH out the Excess with a square cornered squegee. IF too little or no squeeze-out, then you need to reclaim some of the sikaflex and push it and smooth it out again. HOLD 90 Degrees to the acrilyc.
11. Check for thin spots with a strong ligth on the outside. If so spread some sikaflex there and smooth out.
12 PULL THE TAPE finger over finger
13 leave the cleco in for 2 - 4 days at least. KEEO a big mass of SIKAFLEX to check curing process
THIS SIDE IS COMPLETED UNTIL PAINTING. AFTER PAINTING YOU NEED TO FILL THE GAP WITH SIKAFLEX.
1. Protect the edge, use the backcutting technique with overhang and angle razorblaed cutting.
2. Fill the gap with sikaflex, first round smooether out with modified tongue depressor, second round with normal tongue depressor. Once happy remove protecting tape and let cure.
SUGGESTION FOR WINDSHIELD
As windshield is difficult to move around use a code on each standoff in order to have instruction on how much to trim. Write on masking tape and rewrite after each attempt. If you need to ADD then conside curing time"